Monday, September 10, 2007

Soupy slurpee congee

09 Sep 2007, ST

By Foong Woei Wan

WHEN you have lived long enough with the thick, sticky stuff that passes as Cantonese congee at many a so-called Hong Kong eatery here, you learn to attack whatever goo you get in your bowl.

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It isn't laced with broth as it should be, but your inner food police retired long ago. Thank goodness, then, for Sun Lok Noodle House.

Two friends and I had gone all the way to Taman Jurong to try the eatery's stewed beef brisket. One friend also ordered congee with century egg and lean meat ($5++). I was pleasantly suprised. It was congee soupy enough to be sipped. And what a luscious broth it was, tasting of rice and pork that had been simmered for hours.

I ended up slurping down half of my friend's lunch. I also monopolised most of the beef brisket rice ($6.50++). It was that excellent. Ripe with robust flavours, the meat had fatty bits that melted in the mouth.

Sun Lok owner Lee Yiu Mo says that's because his chefs cook the beef brisket for at least 41/2 hours and the congee for at least three hours.

For dim sum, we tried the usual fare: siew mai ($3.50++ for four), har kau ($3.50++ for four), char siew pau ($2.80++ for three), Shanghainese pork dumplings ($2.80++ for three) and chive dumplings ($3++ for three).

I was impressed by the freshness. The dumpling skins were not gooey. None stuck to the lining paper and nothing had been resteamed.

The desserts were hit-and-miss, however. One friend didn't finish her too-diluted honey dew sago soup ($2.20++). Another friend liked his sesame cream ($2.20++), which was a bit bland for me.

But I loved my red bean cream with lotus seeds ($2.20++), which had a fragrant whiff of preserved fruit peel - a truly Cantonese touch. It was the real thing.

1 Yuan Ching Road #01-05, Tel: 6564-5188

Opening hours: 11am to 10.30pm daily

Rating: *** 1/2

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